The costume known as upphlutur derives its name from the bodice, which was worn under the 18th-century women's costume, and also under the older form of peysuföt. Mid-19th century picture shows people at wool work. amongst them a woman wearing the bodice over a light-coloured shirt, with a dark skirt, a light-coloured apron, and a dark, rather deep, tasselled cap.
The skirt of the 19th-century upphlutur appears to have been made of black woollen twill, the shirt of light-coloured woollen fabric. The upphlutur itself was, and is, a tightly-fitting, sleeveless bodice, with a deep neckline and broad straps over the shoulders. The bodice is laced at the front with a chain that passes through ornamental eyelets (millur). In the 19th century, the bodice was made of green, blue or red woollen fabric or velvet. Narrow ornamental borders decorated the back, and embroidery or galloons sewn onto broad velvet borders decorated both sides on the jacket front.
Wool-work, 19th century.
Drawing by Sigurður Guðmundsson ?the Painter.?
Property of the National Museum of Iceland.
Changes over time
In the 20th century different materials began to be used for the upphlutur, as in the case of the peysuföt. The skirt was of broadcloth, silk or other silky fabric, and the bodice of similar fabric. Cotton fabric had begun to be used for the shirt. The ornaments changed; borders with metal-thread embroidery superseded the embroidery or galloons at the front edges of the bodice. The knitted tasselled cap was replaced by a cap sewn of velvet. After the mid-20th century a variety of decorative artificial fabrics became available, and these were used for shirts and aprons; this trend was reversed by the end of the century.
At the beginning of the 21st century, the attitude towards the costume is characterised by a quest for stability. The upphlutur costume comprises a skirt and bodice of black, high-quality woollen fabric, with a white cotton or silk blouse. The bodice is ornamented on the back with narrow velvet borders and metal thread, while on the front edges are borders decorated with metal-thread embroidery or silver or gilded silver filigree. The cap is knitted of fine black woollen yarn. The apron is of wool or silk, vertically striped or chequered. The costume is worn with black stockings and plain black shoes.
Three women wearing upphlutur costume, around 1920.
Photograph Haraldur Blöndal.
Property of the National Museum of Iceland.
